I haven't met people this poor

Today Vera and I headed into a Dzoa village from Sapa via motor bike. The motorbike ride alone was unbelievably scenic and it was VND 60,000 about $3. We then were attacked by the Dzoa merchant woman. Trying to get us to buy almost anything. I did a little shopping and then headed up towards the cave one of the local women told us about. On the way we were invited into one of the Dzoa women's houses. There was very little light, hard beds with mosquito nets for the children. All the rice she grows is stored, not sold, in the house for the winters. The walls were wood planks that had large spaces between them and would do little to prevent the brutally cold winters here in the mountains. In the middle of the open room was a sewing machine where she produced tapestries. One of which I bought.

She told us how her first son died a day after birth. She then bought... yes I said bought... a son from another woman who had too many children for VND 5 million. That is about $250. Since then she has had two daughters. Marriages are arranged sometimes the couples split. Men's families pay a dowry to the woman's family before marriage. It is good to have boys because they do a lot of the work and it is good to have woman because the families get a dowry. Dzoa women typically get married between the ages of 18 and 23 but some may marry at 25 like the woman we met. This is considered late.

The children in the village usually go to school...maybe up to secondary school and then stop because they can not afford university. They then go into farming

Once we arrived at the cave we were again swarmed this time by children trying to rent us flash lights. I used the one on my phone and Vera eventually gave in and got one of the head lamps from the children when the lamps on the walls were shut off once we already entered. Those kids are ruthlessly smart. I didn't realize we were also paying for a guide too. And it was much needed! There were all sorts of turns, twists, and low ceilings which required us to take our bags off to get through. It was definitely easy to get lost in this underground maze. I had always done the touristy type caves before but this was real spelunking!

After the cave we then walked a couple of km out of the village and observed breath taking scenery. Here are some pics!

 Me donning the local gear next to the woman who became very upset with me because I didn't buy from her. They are really good at the guilt trip here.

A new tourist arriving in the village being swarmed by the locals. They literally run down the mountain and surround you. It is good they are armed with merchandise and not weapons.

 Our professional cave guide. Definitely an agile little guy!

Me next to the cave after we went in. I am a muddy mess though I am not sure the picture shows this well

 Dzoa kids racing giant beatles. Its the next best thing after remote control cars I used to play with as a kid

Dzoa woman weeding her rice field

 Scenery just outside the village.

 Kids trying to convince this yack to get back up the hill. They are bribing it with rice grass I think.

 Sapa city center.

Moung girl in Sapa city center.

The scenic ride on the motor bike from Sapa to the Dzoa village


Later I realized I should have asked how the town was run. Is there a council of elders or some other system for making agreements. I think there is a lot to be learned here but I leave tomorrow night so maybe I will find out tomorrow. Let me know if you have any questions you would like me to ask.